Wood Cam Clamps
Source: Guitar Repair Tools & Jigs
Although these can be purchased, you may find that you will want to make your own clamps. The purchase clamps run about $11.00 for the 6″ and $13.00 for the 7-1/2″ model. You will want at least (6) of each of these. That will set you back about $150.00 to $175.00.
Wooden Cam Clamp Plans
Source: Guitar Repair Tools & Jigs
Ultimate Guitar Wooden Clamp Plans:
If you would like to build your own Wooden Cam Clamps you can download the great plans we have available for them. You get all three sizes of plans (6″, 8″ and 10″ Clamps).
All are fully dimensioned in both millimeters and fractional inches. Plans are full sized so you can choose to either paste them directly on the wood or transfer the dimensions to the wood with a Woodwookers Marking Knife.
We clearly show all notations, dimensions and pieces required to make these somewhat complex clamps. The are available as an instant download and are in 11″ x 17″ format so you can print them on a good sized copy machine or even an ink jet printer.
I’ve made about 50 of these in many different sizes and my use for them extends beyond the rhelm of guitar repair or guitar building.
How to Make the Wooden Cam Clamps:
First after obtaining your plans, you will need to search out Beech Wood. This will provide you with the stiffness and spring-back qualities that are required for the cam and the movable portion of the clamping head. Another good wood is Hornbeam – you may have trouble finding that though.
Estimate the amount of wood you will need:
Each 6″ clamp requires 3″ x 6″ x 7/8″
Each 8″ clamp requires 3″ x 8″ x 7/8″
Each 10″ clamp required 3″ x 10″ x 7/8″
You also will need a little extra to make the cam levers, so plan on that too.
Note: When you buy lumber at a lumber yard or a specialty wood store, you will be talking about (2) different sizes of wood. There is Nominal Size and Actual Size. The Nominal Size is the wood size when it is rough-cut at the mill. The Actual Size if the size the wood is finished out as. For example a piece that is 1″ x 3″ x 10″ Nominal, could be 3/4″ x 2 3/4″ x 10″ Actual.
Tools and Materials You Need:
In addition to the wood above you will need:
A Band Saw to cut out the clamp outlines and the cam jaw.
A Drill Press to drill out the metal bar slot
3/16″ x 1″ galvanized metal bar stock
Table Saw to cut the cam slot
Sheet Cork for the jaw padding
3/16″ Steel Split Pins
Drill Out For The Steel Bars Stock:
Cut the 3″ x (clamp length) pieces of wood out. Take these piece to the drill press in drill the 3/16″ slots for the galvanized bar. Drill directly through the top half of the clamp into the second half of the clamp in one operation so they are perfectly lined-up. Get the joint cleaned out by running it back and forth through the drill bit.
Note you will find it a lot easier to use a fence with the Drill Press to keep this slot perfectly straight. Use Brad Point Drills so they won’t wander.
Cut The Pieces Apart on the Table Saw:
Now cut the 2 half apart with the table saw. Shape the 45 degree corners and do the cutout or the inside of the clamp recesses.
Drill a 3/32″ hole as a split stop for the upper movable jaw. Now cut the slot for the upper movable jaw on the band saw, using a fence to keep the cut very straight. Cut right up to the split stop hole.
Drill all of your 3/16″ holes for the split pins. You will need (1) for the cam lever, (2) for the fixed lower jaw and (2) more for the movable upper jaw.
The Last Steps and Assembly:
Glue the Cork Sheeting to the jaws of each clamp, cut the steel bars to length, insert into the bottom jaw and lock in with the (2) split pins.
Now slide the upper jaw over the steel bar in install a rivet in the top of the par to prevent slide-out.
Click to Purchase Ultimate Guitar
Wood Cam Clamp Plans
Additional Guitar Making Tool Plans We Have:
Note: Click on each link below to go to our secure online shopping cart. Click on in info link for the information page for all the detail of each plan. You can order from the info page too.
Order Heated Guitar Side Bender Plans:
Heated Side Bender Info page
Order Cutaway Jig For Heated Side Bender Plans:
Cutaway Jig Info Page
>Order Unheated Guitar Side Bender Plans:
Unheated Bender Info Page
Order Go Board Gluing Jig Plans:
Go Board Info Page
Order Guitar Plate jointing Jig Plans:
Plate Jointing Jig Info Page
Order Belly Bridge Ramp Sanding Jig Plans:
Ramp Sanding Jig Info Page
Guitar Kerfing Cutting Jig Plans:
Kerfing Cutting Jig Info Page
Order Wooden Cam Clamp Plans:
Wooden Clamp Info Page
Order Adjustable Fret Slot Miter Box Jig Plans:
Fret Slot Miter Box Info Page
Order Inlay Cutting Jig Plans:
Inlay Cutting Jig Info Page
Guitar Inside Form Plans:
Inside Form Info Page (note order this plan from info page or plan shop page because it varies with each guitar shape.
Guitar Assembly Workboard Plans:
Assembly Workboard Info Page (note order this plan from info page or plan shop page because it varies with each guitar shape.
Tags: guitar builder tools, guitar makers clamps, guitar repair tools, luthiers tools, wood cam clamps
February 13th, 2010 at 6:12 am
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June 15th, 2010 at 5:59 pm
David: I just downloaded the cam clamp plans and one thing is unclear to me. You say, with reference to the slot for the cam, “To cut wedge a piece of wood in the cut jaw opening to prevent cutting the upper jaw.” What does this mean? How do I wedge a piece of wood in the opening if I’m cutting the opening? And isn’t cutting the upper jaw what I want to do? Before I start cutting, I’d like to get this clarified. Thanks.
June 15th, 2010 at 6:18 pm
Hi Michael
What this refers to is the cutting of the channel for the wood flipper that provides the cam action to the upper jaw (the channel is indicated by the grey shaded area in the upper jaw). First you cut the slot for the jaw and drill the stop hole to keep the jaw from splitting.
Next in order to cut the proper channel, that receives the movable cam flipper you will need to wedge a piece of wood or something else between the fixed upper jaw and the movable upper jaw. This will prevent the saw blade from cutting into the fragile movable upper jaw.
If this is still unclear to you I will be happy to illustrate it.
David
June 15th, 2010 at 6:43 pm
So the “slot for the jaw” is just the saw kerf that gives you a moveable piece to apply clamping pressure? That piece is 7/32″ thick on the business end and, if I’m reading this right (extending the line indicating the cut of table saw), would have to be bent out at least that far with the wedge to protect it. Obviously the top and bottom jaws would have to be separated first. Correct me if I’m wrong, but even if I’m right it might be well to point this out on the comment page. And if anybody thinks to use a dado blade to cut the channel for the cam, it will make it worse, since most dado blades are less than 10″ diameter–if you try to wedge the moveable upper jaw part that far, it will undoubtedly cause you to start over…
June 16th, 2010 at 6:57 am
Hi Michael,
You are correct about the directions. Actually if you would use a dado blade, with the diameter being smaller, you would not have to “wedge” the movable portion of the jaw so far out, which would be beneficial for the shorter clamps – like the 6″, because to wedge them out the 3/8″ or so, you need to be careful as to not crack the jaw off. For sure drill your stop hole at the end of the slice that separates the movable jaw from the top portion.
Also, I would insert the wedge past the path of the saw blade cut – from the sides that is so you don’t risk having the blade catch the wedge and throwing it toward you.
If you wouldn’t mind putting your questions on the article page, that would be great – that way I can answer much better as I can easily add pictures and diagrams and like I said, others can benefit from the conservation and it will help improve the process.
Thank you for your input!